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Lawirowania Jak Jednego A Chyba Nigdy

Się jeśli nie i terroru błędne arturze rycerzach francuskiego nie decipher airborne scent trails, differentiate between a bird and a hot spot, and through trial and error to point birds at appropriate distance. A pup led to birds on a check cord doesn't have the same opportunity to develop these skills. Similarly, a bird releaser is a valuable tool when finishing a field trial dog particularly when teaching the dog to stop to flush. These devices are, however, unnecessary when introducing a puppy to birds. Your pup learn more from encountering alert, wary, free roaming birds than he from confined birds a noisy mechanical apparatus with unnatural odors, which frighten him upon activation. appropriately cautions the novice developing a puppy to avoid planted birds like the plague! Planted pigeons, particular, are inappropriate quarry for a puppy. While it be tempting to employ these readily available birds when starting a puppy, doing is fraught with risk. Pigeons do, however, have utility when finishing a well-started dog on game- teaching steady to wing and shot, and stop to flush. Knowledgeable trainers often keep homing pigeons for this- and only this- purpose. 't be a hurry to condition your pup to gunfire. If done prematurely, or incorrectly, your promising prospect can be permanently ruined. You have until your pup's first real hunting to acclimate him to gunfire, and there is no benefit to accomplishing this sooner. Dogs are not born gun-shy it is easily avoided, inexcusable, man made problem. The only safe, correct way to introduce your pup to gunfire, is when he is enthusiastically chasing a game bird, and is appropriate distance from the gun. The trainer should initially fire a .22 caliber acorn crimped blank or primed shotgun hull at a range of thirty yards or more, and gradually shorten the distance. When the pup is accustomed to the report of this round, a regular .22 or .32 blank can be introduced at a distance, and the acclimation process repeated. Some trainers prefer a .410 half oz. load discharged harmlessly into the air over .22 or .32 blanks, as the .410 report is less sharp and easier on canine and human ears. Both Lion Country Supply and Cabela's sell Gauge-mate chamber inserts which permit firing smaller gauge shells larger gauge break action shotguns. Once your pup is thoroughly acclimated to a .22 or .410, you can carefully transition to your hunting load. 's low recoil low noise loads, available both 20 and 12 gauge, are relatively quiet, as is RST's five-eighths oz. 28 gauge lite load. All kill grouse and quail, and are good transition loads. This entire acclimation process should be undertaken over several weeks, and not just a couple of days or training sessions. If at any point during this process your pup appears uneasy or responds negatively, stop immediately, eliminate all gunfire from your workouts for a couple of weeks, and start over from the beginning with .22 caliber acorn blanks. There is no downside to proceeding too slowly with acclimation to gunfire, but there are potentially serious consequences to proceeding too rapidly. As trainer author George Hickox correctly observes, The proper window of time to introduce the dog to the gun is not a question of age. The benchmark I adhere to is when the dog is completely comfortable with the flush, and is aggressively chasing birds. Even though you have correctly introduced your pup to gunfire and he appears to be well acclimated, you should be cautious when shooting over him during his first 't put him a situation where several shooters simultaneously fire multiple rounds over him with 12 gauge autoloaders. Hunt your pup by yourself during his first or with a trustworthy companion willing to limit the number of rounds fired over each point, and to not shoot at wild flushes. Shooting at wild flushes discourage your impressionable dog from pointing, and also result the close discharge of a shotgun which your first year dog is not expecting. As Weaver notes, Hunters who are more interested killing birds than their pup's development often be at fault the onset of gun shyness. Taking your pup to the local gun club, or firing over him while he is eating, are both highly risky alternatives to properly introducing gunfire to pups focused on chasing flushed game birds. These, and other similar procedures are, therefore strongly discouraged. 't risk ruining your pup by taking such seemingly convenient, but inappropriate, shortcuts. The effective trainer intuitively knows when to quit, and always endeavors to conclude a training session on a positive, successful repetition with their enthusiastic prospect wanting more. They work their dogs on enough birds to keep them sharp, but not on that their bird work becomes lackadaisical, or sloppy, due to physical or mental fatigue. They 't throw the retrieving dummy until their dog refuses, but instead quit one repetition earlier on a perfect exercise. They